One Big Cat's Diary: The Forbidden Zone

We awoke to the noise of what we thought was our camp chef getting the breakfast things out. But it turned out to be a baboon who had tipped the dustbin over and was picking through the contents for food. My tent-mate was just getting up when she saw it scampering away.

From the Fish River Canyon we continued further south until we reached the Orange River, which forms the border between Namibia and South Africa. In such a barren landscape, the river looks remarkably vibrant. The name is derived not from the orange-coloured landscape which surrounds it or the colour of the water, but rather the Dutch monarch Prince William V of Orange.

Vines are grown on the banks of the river on the Namibian side. The grapes are then sold to South African wine producers who turn it into a very palatable red wine. We sampled a bottle of it that evening with the sense of contentment and connectedness that always comes from drinking a local vintage.

We continued alongside the Orange River until it joins the Fish River which comes down from the canyon. From here, we started heading North again which took us along the Fish River and into the so-called "Forbidden Zone". We were now in diamond mining territory. The zone was formed in 1908 when diamonds were discovered in the area. In 2008, the area was designated as the Sperrgebiet National Park and because it has been off-limits for so long, it is pristine and an area of unique biodiversity. It is impossible to drive through the park with a private vehicle and all the tour companies have to apply for special permits to enter.

At the northern boundary of the park, we had to stop at what looked just like a border control. A uniformed guard inspected our vehicle in case we'd stashed some diamonds in there as we drove through. Then after reviewing our passports as well - even though it was not an international border - we were allowed to continue. We stopped for lunch by the side of road in another 'middle of nowhere' location. When they say that the south of Namibia is all about scenery, they're absolutely right. And it doesn't disappoint.